Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children do not want to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.